Update Atmos 0.16 pre-release to current
Hello friends, I have been away from the SwitchHacks scene from some time. My switch is running Atmos 0.16 pre-release and I was wanting to update to get back in the game. Is there anything special I will have to do when updating from such an old version?
Thank you in advance for your time and patience
https://redd.it/1alp3fm
@r_SwitchHacks
Replacing iine L761's Metal Dome Using the PSVita's Metal Dome.
https://redd.it/18ka9za
@r_SwitchHacks
Using a Nintendo Switch as the touch screen AND joystick for the Citra emulator on PC (Info in the first comment)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgcyd-76GwY
https://redd.it/17uux27
@r_SwitchHacks
Atmosphere 1.6.2 is now in released (17.0.0 support finished)
https://github.com/Atmosphere-NX/Atmosphere/releases/latest?repost=1.6.2
https://redd.it/17i0zn6
@r_SwitchHacks
Writeup/explanation of the issue causing bricks on update-to-17.0.0
https://gist.github.com/SciresM/2ddb708c812ed585c4d99f54e25205ff
https://redd.it/179erjc
@r_SwitchHacks
[Release] ezRemote Client
[https://github.com/cy33hc/switch-ezremote-client](https://github.com/cy33hc/switch-ezremote-client)
ezRemote Client is a File Manager application that allows you to connect the Switch to remote FTP, SMB, WebDAV servers to transfer and manage files. This supercedes the apps "Switch SMB Client" and "Switch FTP Client".
What's different?
1. For single file operations, no longer need to "Mark" the file/folder with "Y" button before menu items are enabled.
2. Added cut, copy, paste function for local files
3. Added a Text Editor
4. Added support for WebDav server.
5. Single app to access FTP, SMB and WebDav
Tested with following WebDAV server:
* **(Recommeded)** [RClone](https://rclone.org/) \- For hosting your own WebDAV server. You can use RClone WebDAV server as proxy to 70+ public file hosting services (Eg. Google Drive, OneDrive, Mega, dropbox, NextCloud etc..)
* [Dufs](https://github.com/sigoden/dufs) \- For hosting your own WebDAV server.
* [SFTPgo](https://github.com/drakkan/sftpgo) \- For local hosted WebDAV server. Can also be used as a webdav frontend for Cloud Storage like AWS S3, Azure Blob or Google Storage.
https://redd.it/1776arp
@r_SwitchHacks
Atmosphere 1.6.0 is now in pre-release (17.0.0 support)
https://github.com/Atmosphere-NX/Atmosphere/releases/tag/1.6.0-prerelease?repost=1.6.0
https://redd.it/176biq3
@r_SwitchHacks
sys-tune 2.0.0 released supports automatic pause/play of background music while in home menu
https://github.com/HookedBehemoth/sys-tune/releases/tag/v2.0.0
https://redd.it/16cq7fr
@r_SwitchHacks
battery.](https://preview.redd.it/6ibua4kilmlb1.jpg?width=894&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca8f51e6eb5dd6a20e77b0df7c96c7d7ee6ad42d)
​
Cut along the blue line first.
Now, how much you need to trim from here depends on how big the cells you chose are. With the LTF26A, we can fit the whole battery+BMS if we choose to remove the individual BMSs we soldered on in the previous step and just solder the cells directly to the Switch BMS to let it do the work of protection. The concern here is some sort of catastrophic event where one of the cells somehow ends up with a way lower voltage than the other, causing excess current to flow from one cell to the other due to the voltage difference. We are going to use a 5A SMD Fuse between the 2 cells, which will stop the flow if the current gets too high to try and mitigate this risk. If you can't be arsed like me, you can just make some more space and bypass the switch BMS. It is also possible to fit generic cells that would otherwise be too big by removing their stock BMS and using the switch BMS outside of the battery bay.
​
In conclusion, cut along the red line you can make it all fit in battery bay and along the green line if you can't. If you're not sure, move to step 4 first.
​
**Step 4-Creating your modded battery pack:**
First, charge both your cells till full. Measure their voltage to make sure they are within 0.01V.
​
Create a mega battery pack like that below with Kapton tape
​
[Remember to cover the BMS\/contacts on the cells with kapton individually as well.](https://preview.redd.it/2ecxopnplmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=42007379ed37c94079c1a5dfa581be2cfdf5e50f)
​
Next, attaching your cells/batteries to the switch BMS:
​
https://preview.redd.it/8dtb275wlmlb1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cb22df469c5b654f4c9456a0febfd4c6726115d
If you removed the BMS, solder one of the cells directly to B+ and B- on the switch BMS and for the other cell, solder negative to B- and solder the fuse to B+ and positive to the fuse. Else do what I did and solder directly to the connector wires after removing the conformal coating on their contacts with heat, isopropyl and some tweezers. The reason we do this instead of just taking the connector off and soldering directly to that is because we still want a temperature reading for the battery. You can just do that, it will still work, but I'm pretty sure the Switch uses that reading for fast charging and stuff.
Use multimeter to test if there is an output from the connector.
​
**Step 5-reassembly:**
Make 2 breaks along the wall of the battery bay if your pack has wires extending beyond the battery bay like mine.
​
Connect the battery to the switch. I used some blutack to secure the connection since there's no metal shield to hold it down anymore.
​
Boot up the switch. Turn it off. If it does not turn on check the connection on your batteries.
​
Put your battery into the bay and secure it with some double-sided tape.
​
If you're following what I did, the bms should be hanging outside of the battery bay. This is fine.
​
It should look like the very first photo in the post after all is done:
​
[Ignore the nut, I cut off too much of the metal shield and had to find something to act as a heatsink for the charging IC.](https://preview.redd.it/bpf0zy92mmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=38e57420b5fddab6d2a8ad81e5e71204080f31d4)
​
When reassembling the switch, there will be parts of the back cover that will interfere with the overhanging BMS. Cut those parts off. Additionally stick some additional foam to the exposed speaker to press it down and secure it after reassembly. You will notice the back cover may be tight. This is because at 8mm, the battery is a bit too thick. Sanding the part of the cover above the battery will fix this issue. I didn't do this because I was lazy but you probably should.
​
**Step 6-Enjoy:**
Fully charge and discharge the switch until the low
6400mAh battery mod for the Switch+GUIDE - 55% more playtime
I am sure a lot of us, especially those with V1 switches, have often hoped for a bigger battery. I actually [attempted to do that a year ago](https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchHacks/comments/wbys4s/7000mah62_battery_mod_for_my_switch/). However, this is the new and actually working properly version of the mod.
​
[What the internals look like after the mod.](https://preview.redd.it/kzcrn7x3kmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9206d1f31820b75f51263a1a49d48d9ad0767b48)
​
​
[What it looks like all put back together.](https://preview.redd.it/65jo5iw5kmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd83184b1daa166b8bea34ae08a62398bcd11d80)
​
​
[6400mAh of usable capacity, as reported by the Switch itself.](https://preview.redd.it/uhfutf37kmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=723a106eeee116ceea7aa5cbde321cf32012168f)
​
**I'll start with the results in case that's all you're interested in:**
​
**Battery life:**
Stock-1h45min
​
Modded-2h45min
​
Test conditions-Persona 5 Royal 720p & 60fps mod, Shibuya Station Square, standing still in the interaction zone out towards Central Street. Overclocked to 1326MHz(CPU), 614MHz(GPU), 1600MHz(RAM). Max Brightness. 24C ambient.
**Maximum Viable Clocks in Handheld mode:**
Test Description-Increasing the clock speeds until I get the low battery warning or a system crash, which means the battery can no longer handle the load.
​
Stock-Anything above 614MHz GPU would result in the warning or a system crash.
​
Modded-Could run at maxed out clocks(1785MHz CPU, 921MHz GPU) for 5 minutes. Did not test further since the battery drained 10% in that 5 minutes.
​
**Weight:**
Stock:297g
​
Modded: 330g
​
**Now for the Guide on how you can do this mod:**
Before we start, I'm sure we all know how dangerous lithium batteries can be. I myself am not even close to an expert. Do this mod at your own risk. If you have any proven expertise in this area, please don't be shy to point out anything that seems wrong.
​
**Step 0-Tools:**
Stuff you will need:
* A good soldering iron and accompanying equipment
* Some wire-I used 20AWG silicone wire.
* Kapton/Polyimide tape
* Multimeter
* Screwdrivers for disassembling the switch
​
**Step 1-Cell selection:**
This is the step that was surprisingly the hardest for me. The generic pouch cells you can get online generally are fine for loads<1.5A, but above that they quickly get overloaded and extremely hot. So before buying any batteries, ask the seller for the C rating of the battery for discharge. C x Capacity of battery in Ah=maximum current. However a lot of sellers may not give you this data. In order to bypass this problem we will use batteries made for smartphones, which can consume up to 15w. My previous attempts at the mod failed due to incapable cells.
The next problem is finding a high capacity battery that fits. The battery bay for the switch measures 72(w)x77(l)x8\~(h)mm. You will not be finding one single cell that size. Instead we will use 2 cells in parallel. Preferably, 2 of the same cells. Generic batteries usually have their sizes listed as 804080 or some other sequence of 6 numbers. This format is hhwwll, where 80=8mm in this case. For phone batteries, this information is hard to find, so ask the seller or try looking online for the size of that particular battery.
​
​
[Fun fact: the seller was being mega shady about the specs of this battery. I found out later the reason why was because they were new-old stock of smartphone batteries from 2017 modded with a standard bms.](https://preview.redd.it/qmb9mzdokmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d6e9b8707de45bb56f8cbb211c6bb0d872700cc)
​
The cells I ended up with were from the [LTF26A](https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-ltf26a.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230831020133&SearchText=ltf26a&spm=a2g0o.home.1000002.0) battery, which was from the LeEco Le
Mission Control v0.9.4 released
https://github.com/ndeadly/MissionControl/releases/tag/v0.9.4
https://redd.it/163wa9d
@r_SwitchHacks
hekate v6.0.6 & Nyx v1.5.5
https://github.com/CTCaer/hekate/releases
https://redd.it/15yacuy
@r_SwitchHacks
Goldleaf gets a new update: version 1.0.0
https://github.com/XorTroll/Goldleaf/releases
https://redd.it/15xodrk
@r_SwitchHacks
Nintendo Switch Hekate issues
I have tried to inject the Hekate.bin payload onto my nintendo switch and every time I try using TegraRCMGUI to inject it, it keeps on saying not responding. I even tried to use NS-USBLOADER and it always fails to inject the payload. When I use Is My Switch Patched it says "The serial prefix belongs to a unit refurbished by Nintendo. It is almost certainly patched. The prefix for my switch is XAW9" If I use the RCM Loader (the link is provided below) would I be able to forcibly inject the Hekate.bin payload onto my Nintendo Switch regardless of these issues?
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Including-thumbstick-Game-Boy-Advance/dp/B0BC7WRXW3/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=RCM+Loader&qid=1664117542&sr=8-2
https://redd.it/101hdp7
@r_SwitchHacks
UPDATE: In less than 24 hours, /r/SwitchHacks will be going private indefinitely.
Hello everyone,
Like many other subreddits, we want to update our community on our intentions to make /r/SwitchHacks **private** within the next 24 hours. This post is an edited x-post used by several subs in protest of the recent changes to Reddit and the CEO's repeated libeling and lies of and towards third party app developers like Apollo's developer.
This was not an easy decision to make, given a variety of factors, but it's one we feel comfortable making. Anything posted before tomorrow, June 12th, will be the final front page of our community before we privatize the subreddit entirely. In the (somewhat unlikely) scenario that Reddit's leadership has a change of direction that sees the reversal the recent API policy change, we will reopen the subreddit, but until this happens, /r/SwitchHacks will be unavailable for use in any capacity whatsoever. Many other subreddits are doing the same, and we stand with them. Please see /r/ModCoord and these extremely informative posts by the moderators of /r/AskHistorians and /r/videos:
* https://old.reddit.com/r/AskHistorians/comments/142w159/askhistorians_and_uncertainty_surrounding_the/
* https://old.reddit.com/r/videos/comments/145vns0/the_future_of_rvideos/
**FAQ:**
**Q: What does making** /r/SwitchHacks **private mean, in this case?**
>A: Taking /r/SwitchHacks private means that no-one, except moderators and approved submitters, can see the subreddit's front page. When attempting to access the subreddit, you will be met with a blank screen stating "/r/SwitchHacks has been set to private by its subreddit moderators."
**Q: What does indefinite mean in this case?**
>A: Originally, the protest was planned to be 48 hours. However, after a shambolic AMA held by Reddit's CEO, it has become clear to us that Reddit doesn't intend to act in good faith. When the CEO is willing to lie and spread libellous claims about another third-party developer, and then try *double down* by vilifying them, again, in an AMA, despite being proven as a liar by the developer through audio recordings, that's when we knew what we were up against. Therefore, the subreddit will be privatised until such time as a reasonable resolution is proposed.
**Q: Won't Reddit just remove you as moderators and force open the subreddit?**
>A: This is a distinct possibility, Reddit has made it clear that the “health” of their site is more important to them. We as a team are prepared for this, none of us want to continue to volunteer for a company that disrespects the people who helped build it into the front page of the internet.
**Q: Where else can I go to discuss Switch hacking and homebrew?**
>Feel free to [join ReSwitched](https://discord.gg/ZdqEhed) and [Nintendo Homebrew](https://discord.gg/C29hYvh). ReSwitched's Discord server is supported by, and run by, members of the subreddit mod team. Nintendo Homebrew is an allied server with many of the same regulars and moderators as ReSwitched.
Lastly, thank you. Whatever happens to us moderators, we want to thank you for helping make /r/SwitchHacks the place it is today. We have thoroughly enjoyed watching this community grow, and we understand it wouldn't be anywhere near where it is today without you, the users. We haven't always got stuff right, but we hope you understand we've always wanted what's best for the community. Hopefully we'll be back together soon, but the ball is in Reddit's court. What happens next is down to them and them alone. Let's just hope they do the right thing, and come to us with a proper resolution.
See you soon, hopefully
/r/SwitchHacks Mod Team.
https://redd.it/146ooi6
@r_SwitchHacks
What are the resistor sizes and values for these burnt ones
Attempted to do some repairs, all was going well until I made a mistake, in multiple attempts to correct I think I messed up the resistors in the pictures:
​
https://preview.redd.it/db1arbky0e9c1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fd2c79d16007a4e30e87c9d535412b3885eccdc1
I am unable to find the exact sizes and resistor values to replace them (yes I'd like to try).
If I am not mistaken, the top right circle is 4.7k? What about the others?
Thanks all.
https://redd.it/18uafai
@r_SwitchHacks
PTM7950 Thermal Pad on Nintendo Switch
Have anyone tried to put PTM7950 for cooler temperature for their switch?
https://redd.it/18e5qa8
@r_SwitchHacks
Steam Remote Play on Android 11 is *insanely* good... some optimization tricks in the comments
https://redd.it/17i44r7
@r_SwitchHacks
What is the internal fan maximum current ?
I’d like to convert a broken switch OLED to a docked only console and while I’m at it I would like to upgrade the internal fan to a large one. My question is: is there a risk to blow up the regulator with a 5V PWM PC fan ? I think the fan is on the same voltage regulator as the Joycons, and since I am not using them I suppose there is room for a beefier fan ?
Also is anyone working on a bigger heat sink for « consolized » switches ?
https://redd.it/17fjgbp
@r_SwitchHacks
Atmosphere 1.6.1 is now in pre-release (better 17.0.0 brick fix, haze improvements)
https://github.com/Atmosphere-NX/Atmosphere/releases/tag/1.6.1-prerelease?repost=1.6.1
https://redd.it/179etim
@r_SwitchHacks
Mission Control v0.10.0 released (17.0.0 support)
https://github.com/ndeadly/MissionControl/releases/tag/v0.10.0
https://redd.it/176vp96
@r_SwitchHacks
Are there any working TAS tools for the switch?
I've seen stuff like PAUSE-nx and nx-TAS, but I can't get either of them to work, and they haven't been updated since 3 years ago, so I can only assume they're dead. Are there any working alternatives?
https://redd.it/16dkqmg
@r_SwitchHacks
battery warning flashes and your Switch turns off. Don't get battery anxiety when it reaches 1%-the battery probably still has plenty of capacity-the Switch just thinks it doesn't because you've already discharged 4667mAh. It will run for quite a while at '1%'. Do this as few times. This is to make sure you get a (somewhat)accurate battery percentage displayed on the switch.
https://redd.it/16743yp
@r_SwitchHacks
Pro3 AI Edition, a 2017 phone from a now-bankrupt company. You may know LeEco's CEO as the CEO of Faraday Future. They are exactly the size of the battery bay with a few mm to spare. They are technically 4000mAh batteries, however their age and the fact they charge up to 4.4v instead of the switches 4.2v max means you will never actually see that capacity in real use. While you're buying the batteries, buy a [zb2l3 battery capacity tester](https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-zb2l3.html?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20230831020203&SearchText=zb2l3&spm=a2g0o.productlist.1000002.0) and a [1.5Ohm load resistor](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005004518491951.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.7718W4KSW4KS2k&algo_pvid=6cdd74af-651e-458f-bb28-5b5124e8aa97&algo_exp_id=6cdd74af-651e-458f-bb28-5b5124e8aa97-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%211.32%210.92%21%21%211.32%21%21%40213bd97f16934764677311509e7be6%2112000029448285590%21sea%21US%210%21A&curPageLogUid=PP9sEemV08GL&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt), along with some sort of lithium charging circuit(I used a [TP4056](https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-tp4056.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230831020854&SearchText=tp4056&spm=a2g0o.productlist.1000002.0)). Optionally buy a few [4A 1s BMS boards](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005003877533038.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.4713faYwfaYwbn&algo_pvid=68e8609c-ae81-44d9-9d7b-c93e840c3cf7&algo_exp_id=68e8609c-ae81-44d9-9d7b-c93e840c3cf7-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%211.56%211.56%21%21%2111.30%21%21%40213bd97f16934765637251654e7be6%2112000027373038603%21sea%21US%210%21A&curPageLogUid=ebBGuqpTvC9b&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt). You should also consider buying more than 2 batteries in case some are wonky.
​
**Step 2-Testing:**
Before Testing, if you bought a smartphone battery, you will need to desolder the stock BMS. Peel off the tape surrounding the battery connector and BMS to reveal it. Be careful not overheat or short the Battery while de-soldering. Solder on the BMS you bought and some wires.
​
[ It should look something like this after removing the original BMS ](https://preview.redd.it/3fso1w9rlmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b75f240afab099f7568060f23b9b15da1cad424)
​
Fully charge the battery with your charging circuit and use the ZB2L3 to [test the capacity](https://www.instructables.com/ZB2L3-BATTERY-CAPACITY-TESTER/) of the cells with the 1.5ohm resistor down to 3.2V.
​
My results:
​
[Discharging single cell at 2.6A yielded a capacity of 3100mAh per battery](https://preview.redd.it/wmy4w4h0lmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=847569616536e2dcdb14b1e6f944e82ba04d5c22)
​
​
[Discharging both in parallel at 2.6A yielded 6700mAh](https://preview.redd.it/v9xu8ns1lmlb1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f9ce9d1e9e3d5f7f1c42b722297814617a518b99)
​
Therefore results for the final battery we will be putting in the switch:
​
|Average Discharge Current(A)|Average Power(W)|Capacity(mAh)|
|:-|:-|:-|
|2.6|9.6|6703|
|5.2\~(2.6\*2)|19.2\~|6224(3112\*2)|
​
If you are performing this mod on a v2/OLED/Lite, 2.6A will probably be enough. On a v1 however, you will need more. I would say about 4A minimum, but I'm testing at 5.2A just to be safe. You are looking for a capacity that you are satisfied with and the batteries to stay somewhat cool during the test(warm, comfortable enough to touch is fine). If the batteries you bought are under-performing, go back to step 2. If they meet performance standards go to the next step. If you bought >2 batteries choose the 2 with the closest capacity.
​
**Step 3-Preparing the Switch for the mod:**
[Disassemble your switch to the point where the battery can be removed.](https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Switch+Battery+Replacement/112995)
Remove the BMS from the stock battery intact. I don't have pictures of this, but just peel off the black tape near the connector and de-solder carefully.
Next, you have to trim the EMI shield
​
[We are doing this to give more space to the
Guide on how to adjust the Switch FAN SPEED
Guide on how to adjust the Switch FAN SPEED
Add code [tc\] in atmosphere\\config\\system_settings.ini
[tc\]
use_configurations_on_fwdbg = u8!0x1
tskin_rate_table_console_on_fwdbg = str!"[[-1000000, 10000, 64, 64\], [35000, 41000, 80, 100\], [41000, 45000, 100, 128\], [45000, 51000, 128, 255\], [51000, 1000000, 255, 255\]\]"
tskin_rate_table_handheld_on_fwdbg = str!"[[-1000000, 10000, 40, 40\], [35000, 41000, 64, 90\], [41000, 45000, 90, 128\], [45000, 51000, 128, 255\], [51000, 1000000, 255, 255\]\]"
holdable_tskin = u32!0xEA60
touchable_tskin = u32!0xEA60
​
Example:
Change the XX000 values for Temperature. Example=(51000 = 51C)
Change the YYY values for FAN Speed. Example=(255 = 100% FAN)
[XX000, XX000, YYY, YYY\]
[45000, 51000, 128, 255\]
[45C, 51C, 50%FAN, 100%FAN\]
Speed FAN
16=6.25% FAN
32=12.5% FAN
64=25% FAN
96=37.5% FAN
128=50% FAN
160=62.5% FAN
224=87.5% FAN
255=100% FAN
(+- 2.55=1%+Speed FAN)
tskin_rate_table_console_on_fwdbg = Dock Mode
tskin_rate_table_handheld_on_fwdbg = Handheld Mode
https://redd.it/1655z3f
@r_SwitchHacks
Denuvo security is now on Switch, including new tech to block PC Switch emulation
https://www.videogameschronicle.com/news/denuvo-security-is-now-on-switch-including-new-tech-to-block-pc-switch-emulation/
https://redd.it/15zdgo3
@r_SwitchHacks
Mission Control v0.9.3 released (16.1.0 support)
https://github.com/ndeadly/MissionControl/releases/tag/v0.9.3
https://redd.it/15ydf86
@r_SwitchHacks
Atmosphere 1.5.5 is now released (16.1.0 support)
https://github.com/Atmosphere-NX/Atmosphere/releases/tag/1.5.5?repost=1.5.5
https://redd.it/15xq6sz
@r_SwitchHacks
NOTICE: This is an unofficial community and not associated with Nintendo Co. Ltd. or its subsidiaries and associates in any way.
https://redd.it/14fdf7s
@r_SwitchHacks
Need help with Nintendo Switch Thermal Paste / Cooling Solutions.
I've been planning to re-paste thermal paste for my V2 switch (2019).
It doesn't get seriously hot, but there is definitely an increase in heat fan noise and heat overall. Plus I think it needs little bit of cleaning and servicing! I have serveral years of experience with PC parts and larger consoles, but this is the first time I'm taking apart something small and delicate as the switch.
Im planning to do the following to improve the thermal performance of this device, please let me know if I've planned something wrong or anyway I can improve these.
1. Remove the metal CPU shield cover shim (or whatever thats called) and re-apply thermal paste there (Noctua NT-H1, surface will be cleaned with Arctic Clean Kit + 70% alcohol wipes).
2. Put thermal pad on memory modules (options below)
2.a - Put a 0.5mm thermal pad in between the shim and the memory module
2.b - Put only on top of the shim not inside it (but I feel like there is not enough contact between the modules and the shim
2.c - do both above.
3. Then reapply the paste between shim and heat-pipe
4. Then between the pipe and the shield plate
5. I also wanted to know If I can replace the foam pieces on heat-sink with standard duct-tape -----or----- some thermal pads? (Thermal pads on heat-pipe will be a bad idea when it comes to heat dissipation) - I have a feeling they are tightly glued and may tear when removing the heat-sink, just being ready.
I need help with steps 2 and 5 mainly here, what should I do?
https://redd.it/142o2mh
@r_SwitchHacks
